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Sunday, August 18, 2013

Prague, Day 4, More Mucha


Sunday, 18th August

Our last full day in Prague and we wanted to make sure we did something special – and we did! We went to the National Gallery. This is housed in a huge modern building that looks like a big ugly office block from outside, but inside looks sleek and elegant. The centre of the building has been cleared, so this is a huge high central space of at least six stories, which gives the building light and a sense of open space.

We thought we would be seeing some 20th century European art, including 14 Picassos, a Van Gogh, Rodin and Henry Moore sculptures, a Toulouse-Lautrec, which we did, but we were not expecting to see much else. That would have been great if that was all that was there, but there was so much more.

Alfons Mucha’s “Slav Epic” was on display. This is 20 enormous paintings (a quarter square kilometre of canvas) showing the history of the Slavic people. Oh my goodness! What a spectacular exhibition. By the end of it we were almost wishing we were Slavic. If we were, we would have felt immensely proud of our race and our histories. Alfons Mucha had the idea for the epic very early in his career and began this amazing work soon after he returned to his Czech homeland after his success in Paris with his gorgeous Art Nouveau posters, designs, decorations etc. I was able to take photos (no flash) so have a look. The photos do not do the work justice, but you will get an idea of the grandeur and the scale.

Interestingly the Gallery is rarely mentioned in the guide books, not in Rick Steves anyway, and in my little Top 10 Prague book, it is listed as something to do on a rainy day. If you are coming to Prague, before you wend your way through the crowds on Charles Bridge and the castle, and maybe after you have been to the Old Town Square, go to the National Gallery – there are  several locations, but the one you MUST go to is at the Veletrezni Palace, the collection of Modern and Contemporary Art. This and the Alfons Mucha Museum have been my highlights in Prague.

We rode the tram back to the hotel, taking a detour out to the ‘burbs in a different direction along the river, enjoying the scenery along the way.

We found a beer hall for dinner, Dick had the goulash and cabbage salad and I had a pork schnitzel, a beer or two each for under $30. Excellent! After dinner we strolled around to a festival on Wenceslas Square, with Czech singers, rock bands and other entertainers.

Our last full day in Prague was a great one. Prague is a fantastic place, with a friendly, relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. We have loved it!

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