Thursday, 29th August
After a slow start, in our own time, and breakfast in the
hotel, we walked towards the bus stop to get the bus to Monte Carlo. We
followed the directions from “our man, Rick”, but unfortunately The Man did not
prepare us for all the renovations going on around the bus stop, well, the bus
stop that is no longer where it once was. Walking back and forth across the
streets and plazas we eventually found the next stop for the #100 bus that
takes you along the coast to Monaco.
We sat on the right side of the bus, so that we could get
the best view, the only drawback that we were facing the wrong way. Not to
worry – still amazing views, coming or going.
The bus takes about an hour to go from Nice to Monte
Carlo and all the way is spectacular. Fabulous views of the water, the cliffs,
the harbours, the villas, the boats, the cars – everything is beautiful! We
tried to find the villa that The Rolling Stones recorded “Exile on Main Street”
in 1972. We know we saw it; we just don’t know which villa it was!
We were tootling along quite enthralled by everything we
were seeing, when the bus stopped at one of the many stops along the way, and
the driver got out, walked to the end of the bus and saw smoke billowing out.
So all 100 passengers had to get out and wait for another bus. Another one came
along within a few minutes, but was packed, so we waited for the next. While we
were waiting, just above a beach, we watched the people paddling in the
shallows, and playing on the sand. There was a woman, who looked like she was
in her 70s, doing her stretching exercises, topless.
The next bus was crowded too, but we got on and stood
most of the way to Monaco, about 25 minutes. We got off at the end of the line
and strolled back towards the casino.
Oh.
My.
Goodness.
What beautiful buildings, what beautiful shops, what
beautiful wealth.
Many of the shops have Prince Albert & Princess
Charlene’ wedding photo in the window. Intriguing. The looked happy enough –
but we did not see them in the flesh.
The Casino was very busy, and it doesn’t open until
2:00pm, but there were many people milling around, and several fabulous cars
parked outside. The Pokie machine hall was open, so we went in for a peek and
then wandered off towards the Prince’s Palace.
It all seems very nice! Very clean, very tidy, free
public WCs, which were very clean and even the pedestrian underpasses, which
can be dark, scary and filthy in most places, were bright and clean.
Monaco has the highest per capita income in the world,
and it shows. No income tax. It is enticing! It is a symbol of success – it has
the best of Italian and French lifestyles the longest continual reigning royal
family since 1267 and seems totally unscathed by the GFC - if going by property
prices is any guide. However, Dick parading around in his hat purchased from
the gypsies in Orvieto market might have brought down the prices a tad.
Furthermore, Monaco was the only place we visited in Europe where there was no
sign of the street traders trying to sell copies of handbags &/or some
trinket or other. The only downside was that there was not one square inch of
beach between the magnificent ocean going vessels or swimming. But this problem
was solved by the hundreds of rooftop pools which every apartment block seemed
to have – maybe it is in this principality’s building regulations. It is not
hard to appreciate why the French Riviera must be the favourite holiday
destination for millions of Europeans as it is difficult to imagine not
enjoying a return visit no matter how often.
We got the bus back to Nice (€1:30 each way) and called
in at the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MOMAC), had a coffee, looked
at the sculptures on the terrace and came back to the hotel, walking through
Nice. It’s just a little bit more gritty and noisy and vibrant than Monte
Carlo.
We rested for a while - absorbing the beauty, the wealth, the bus trip were exhausting!
For our last dinner in Nice/France/Europe we consulted Our Man, Rick, who recommended some restaurants in the next street. After some of the discrepancies we have found between Rick and Nice we wondered if our quest for a good restaurant would be in vain.
We should not have worried. Rick's first two were side by side, so we considered each and made a decision to go to L'Authentic. Rick, my man, you did not let us down!
We shared an entrée of gnocchi with a creamy truffle sauce - did you know that gnocchi was first created in Nice? No, nor did I. Our mains were Sea Bass - this has been a delicious discovery for us in Europe. I think I've had sea bass in each country we've visited - and Dick had a veal steak. Our wine was a dry Rose from Provence. My dessert was a crème brulee and Dick had a selection of mini desserts with his coffee. We both had a digestive of limoncello.
We enjoyed the meal and reflected on our six weeks of travel and followed up with our final passegiata (evening stroll) round Nice.
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